When court bookings tripled in months: the 2019 padel explosion that broke assumptions
In 2019 padel went from niche club activity to a mass-participation sport in several European markets. In Spain and Sweden courts were fully booked, club memberships rose 40-70% year on year in many cities, and grassroots tournaments popped up every weekend. Retailers and apparel start-ups saw a clear opening. Hundreds of new padel-branded clothing lines launched between January and December 2019, many borrowing tennis silhouettes, streetwear cuts and glossy influencer imagery.
One mid-sized UK brand, which I'll call Cortevo for this study, had enjoyed steady sports-lifestyle sales uk.modalova.com of about £420,000 in 2018. They invested £95,000 in a padel capsule for 2019 - three men’s polos, three women’s skirts/shorts, and a limited run of jackets - produced on the same factories used for their tennis range. The market response looked good at first: 8,500 site visits to the padel range in the first month, and 1,200 items sold. But beneath those numbers, cracks were forming that reflected a broader industry failing: the design assumptions ignored what players actually needed on court.
Why fashion-forward designs and generic performance fabrics failed players on court
Brands assumed padel shoppers wanted something aspirational - sharp cuts, prominent logos, bright prints. That assumption led to three specific problems that organisations across the sector overlooked.
- Wrong performance profile: Polo fabrics were heavy, with 190 g/m2 knit weights meant for casual wear, so shirts clung when wet and restricted shoulder mobility during quick volley exchanges. Poor patterning for rapid lateral movement: Skirts and shorts lacked gussets, low-rise waistbands slipped during lunge-recovery, and side seams sat directly over the hip joint, causing bunching and chafing. Durability and care mismatches: Graphics printed with plastisol cracked after three intense washes; high abrasion points on inner thighs and knees wore thin within a few months.
Dig deeper and the metrics tell a clear story: Cortevo’s padel returns were 22% in the first quarter - almost double their usual 12% for other lines. Repeat purchases from padel buyers were low: only 12% of customers bought a second padel item within six months, versus 38% for their tennis offerings. Club-level word-of-mouth eroded quickly because players found pieces that looked good off-court but failed under match intensity.
Designing for rallying and sliding: a player-centred strategy replaces fashion-first instincts
Faced with poor retention and negative club chatter, Cortevo shifted tack. The new strategy had three pillars, all anchored to player behaviour and performance data rather than image trends.
They allocated £28,000 to a six-week research sprint: 1,200 player-survey responses, 60 hours of on-court observation, and 18 instrumented trials with motion-capture and humidity sensors attached to garments. The result was a brief that read like a player manifesto: lighter weight tops (120-140 g/m2), high-stretch four-way panels at the shoulders and crotch, UPF 30 minimum sun protection, and finishes designed to survive 40+ machine washes without performance loss.
Rolling out a player-centred line: a 6-month implementation plan with concrete steps
Execution was split into a five-phase timeline, each with measurable checkpoints. You can follow these steps if you’re running a brand or vetting suppliers.
Month 0-1: Rapid insight and hypothesis validation
- Run a 10-question player survey across clubs and social channels. Cortevo reached 1,200 respondents in two weeks; key metrics collected: preferred sleeve length, perceived fit problems, average weekly play hours. Recruit 18 representative players for instrumented trials - mix of ages, play intensity and body types. Budget: £6,500 for kit, sensors and analyst time.
Month 1-2: Material selection and lab testing
- Test 12 fabric options in lab for moisture-vapour transport, stretch-to-failure and abrasion cycles. Cortevo rejected 5 fabrics that lost >20% elasticity after 30 wash cycles. Specify finishes: PFC-free durable water repellent for outer layers, silver-free antimicrobial finish based on biobased agents to avoid regulatory issues.
Month 2-3: Patterning based on motion data
- Use motion-capture output to move shoulder seams 15-20 mm back and out to avoid restriction during overhead smash and defensive reaches. Add a diamond-shaped crotch gusset with 20% extra stretch material to shorts; integrate a non-slip waistband band to reduce slippage by design.
Month 3-4: Pilot production and field test
- Order a pilot run of 1,500 units across nine SKUs. Per-unit production cost rose 8% because of upgraded fabrication and extra construction steps; retail prices increased by £6-£10 per item. Distribute pilots to 12 clubs for trial period of 8 weeks, tracking performance via online feedback forms and in-person check-ins.
Month 4-6: Iterate, scale and retail rollout
- Incorporate feedback: shorten a sleeve by 10 mm for women’s cut, reduce waistband elasticity for men’s shorts to prevent over-stretching. Final batch of 6,400 units produced; lead time negotiated down to 7 weeks using a split production model: core items in Europe for speed, seasonal colours in Asia for cost. Launch via club pop-ups, targeted digital ads and a 30-day satisfaction guarantee to reduce perceived purchase risk.
Throughout this process Cortevo tracked five KPIs weekly: fit complaints per 100 items, first-30-day returns rate, repeat-buy rate at 90 days, average customer rating, and inventory sell-through at club points of sale.
From 22% returns and 12% repeat rate to stronger retention and lower warranty claims: measurable results after one season
Numbers matter. After the first full season of the player-centred line, Cortevo recorded outcomes that demonstrate the power of aligning product to real usage.
Metric Before redesign After redesign (6 months) First-quarter returns 22% 9% 90-day repeat purchase rate 12% 48% Average unit margin 38% 35% (due to higher costs) Customer rating (out of 5) 3.2 4.4 Club stock sell-through in 60 days 35% 78% Warranty claims for seam failure 4.8% of units 0.9% of unitsWhile margins dipped slightly due to higher material and construction costs, customer lifetime value rose markedly. Cortevo estimated that each acquired padel customer now yielded 1.9x the lifetime value they had previously, because of higher repeat rates and lower return-related costs. Sales velocity at club sales points increased by 2.2x, which also reduced discount pressure in e-commerce channels.
5 Practical lessons the market forced on clothing brands - hard, specific, and actionable
Design is not styling alone: pattern placement matters as much as aesthetic. Moving a seam 15 mm can change perceived comfort and performance. Use motion data rather than instinct to set seam lines. Specify fabric by metric, not name: require stretch recovery percentages, wicking rate, and abrasion cycles in contracts. Generic "performance knit" is insufficient. Test with real players for supply chain decisions: pilot 1,000–2,000 units before full runs. Small pilots expose fit and wear issues that are expensive to correct later. Price for value, not for image: a small premium for better function is acceptable if you communicate the benefits and reduce return risk with guarantees. Partner with clubs, not just influencers: clubs drive repeat sales because they put gear into hands during play. Treat clubs as product testers and co-marketing partners.These lessons were learned the hard way by companies that treated padel like a new colourway rather than a different sport. Brands that pivoted to player-centred design captured longer-term loyalty and avoided the expensive whiplash of returns and inventory markdowns.
How you, whether brand owner or buying player, can apply these findings today
If you make padel clothing, use this action checklist. If you're a player or club buyer, use it to vet brands.
For brands: a 7-point checklist before you commit to production
Run a 30-question player survey and aim for at least 500 qualified responses from your target market. Instrument a small wear trial of 10-20 players and measure mobility and sweat loss across one match session. Specify three key fabric metrics in tech packs: weight (g/m2), stretch recovery after 30 washes (%), and abrasion cycles to failure. Include technical features such as gussets, laser-cut venting, or silicone grippers where relevant, with minimum dimensional tolerances. Run a 1,000-unit pilot and measure returns, reviews and on-court durability for 8-12 weeks. Ensure supply chain flexibility: source 30-40% of critical SKUs from faster European lines for restocking. Offer a 30-day satisfaction guarantee and collect structured post-purchase feedback to inform the next cycle.For players and club buyers: a quick self-assessment to spot garments that actually work
Score each statement True = 1, False = 0. Add up your score. 6-8 = player-ready; 3-5 = maybe; 0-2 = avoid.
The fabric weight is under 150 g/m2 for tops and under 200 g/m2 for outer layers. Seams are away from high-mobility joints (shoulder, hip, inner thigh). The shorts or skirt have a stretch gusset or four-way stretch panel. Garments claim a wash durability metric or number of cycles. Waistband has a non-slip band or adjustable closure. There is a club or player review highlighting on-court durability rather than just appearance. Return rate or warranty periods are clearly stated with a satisfaction policy. The brand provides sizing guidance with body measurements rather than vague labels.Final thoughts - where the market goes now and what to watch
The 2019 boom was a wake-up call. Brands that saw padel as an easy extension of tennis or athleisure had to backtrack fast. The winners were the ones who listened to players, invested small but targeted sums in real-world testing, and were honest about the costs of better performance. Expect the following trends to continue:
- Greater transparency in fabric metrics on product pages. More co-development work with clubs and federations so new lines launch with credible use-case validation. Higher initial per-unit costs but better retention and lower returns, which stabilises margins over time.
If you are building a brand, take the empirical path - measure what matters on court and design from there. If you are choosing gear, don’t buy into flash alone. Ask for the numbers, test in play, and reward brands that earn your trust with repeat business. The 2019 boom changed the market because it made the difference between style and use impossible to ignore. The ones who adapt will win not because of a logo, but because their shirts and shorts let you play your best.
